Emily Witham (Scotland/United Kingdom)
Middlesex University, London, Fashion Design BA (First-class Hons) 2017
Emily Witham specializes in menswear to be worn by all genders. The juncture between masculinity and femininity is subverted through unconventional marriages of fabrications, silhouettes, detailing and symbolism. The formality of classic tailoring and craftsmanship of traditional leatherwork techniques are assembled alongside playful references and an innate queer sensibility.
“My collection conceptualises and explores the complicated relations that the British Royal family has with national LGBT+ history and gendered dress. I researched the tradition of “unbreeched” kings and princes from the 16th to 19th century, who wore dresses throughout childhood so that their visual gender was indefinable. And a more recent event in 1988, where Lady Di the Princess of Wales was dressed as a drag king by friends George Michael and Freddy Mercury to allow her to party undetected at the Vauxhall Tavern.”
The resulting collection portrays a humorous observation of modern British culture through glitter, hearts and starched collars.